Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Mardi Gras

Mardi Gras in New Orleans marks the end of the carnival season.  Michigan's "Fat Tuesday" celebrations focus on paczki, which are fine, but a glorified donut can't really compete with Cajun and Creole cooking from Louisiana.

While it's impossible to replicate the French Quarter or the Carnival parades, the cooking is easier to recreate.  My recipes to celebrate Mardi Gras include: Jamabalaya, Red Beans & Rice, and Pecan Pie.

No time to cook?  You can pick up some spicy fried chicken at Popeyes (the Battle Creek store is the closest one to Kalamazoo) and some Abita beer (a tasty craft beer brewed outside New Orleans that's available at World Market, Meijers and other retailers.)

 

Jambalaya


Jambalaya is a classic Louisiana dish that can be made with a huge variety of different ingredients.  Here's the version that I've made every Mardi Gras for over ten years.  It takes a fair amount of time to make this.  Some steps can be done a few days in advance.

Ingredients:
2 whole chickens
2-3 pounds ham
3 bell peppers
4 onions
3 stalks of celery
3 cups of rice
2 cans (28 oz each) whole tomatoes
3 cups chicken stock
2 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp white pepper
1 tsp black pepper
2 tsp salt
2 bay leaves
1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup flour


The night before (or earlier) bake the chickens and ham.  After the chicken cools, remove the meat from the bones.  Refrigerate the meat until ready to cook.  Simmer the chicken bones and skin, in enough water to cover, for a few hours to make chicken stock.  The longer it simmers the richer the stock.

Cut the peppers, onion, and celery into 1-2 inch pieces.

The only hard part of this recipe is the roux, which is critical to the jamalaya's flavor.  The problem with a Louisiana roux is that it takes the cook's full concentration for a long time and if it overcooks, it is ruined.  It's also hot and can burn you if it spills.  (This is the only stressful part of making jambalaya.)  Some groceries sell roux in jars, which is certainly easier, but I have never tried it.
The roux itself is simply flour with oil slowly cooked in a heavy skillet until the mixture browns.  I use a cup of flour and a cup of oil, which makes for a very rich, flavorful jambalaya.  The trick to success is to stir constantly over a medium to medium low burner for about 15 minutes.  This gives a medium-brown roux.  Coffee-colored roux is supposed to have a richer flavor but I've never had the patience to wait longer than a peanut-butter tone.  Some cooks prefer a milder blonde roux.  

If the burner is too hot, or if you get distracted, the roux can burn.  Specks of blackened flour will appear in the oil.  There's no way to recover from this and the burned flavor would ruin the jambalaya, so it's time start over.  So it's good to ignore the telephone and to be sure small children are under control before starting the roux.

Once the roux is done the pan remains hot even after the heat is off.  I stir in the chopped vegetables at this point to cool the roux and prevent it from burning.
Next, chop the cooked ham and chicken into chunks about the same size as the vegetables.  Brown them briefly in a heavy skillet.

Then everything goes into a big oven dish.  I use a 12" x 16" x 4" oval roasting pan that has a lid.  Add the veggies with roux, meats, canned tomatoes (with juices), uncooked rice, chicken stock, bay leaves, and spices.  Stir briefly so everything is evenly distributed.

Cook for about two hours (covered) until the rice is soft and the edges start to brown.  I usually stir it a couple of times during cooking.

Notes:
This is flavorful but not particularly spicy.  I offer Tabasco or Louisiana Hot Sauce at the table for those who want hotter jambalaya.

I've experimented with a gluten-free roux, using sweet white rice flour, and it tasted fine.


  

Red Beans and Rice



Red Beans and Rice are another traditional Louisiana food that I make for Mardi Gras.  It's a simple dish but tasty and always popular.

Ingredients:
2 pounds dried small red beans
2 onions
2 bay leaves
2 pounds smoked sausage

Wash the beans and add enough water to cover them in a pot.  Soak overnight.

Chop the onions and and them and the bay leaves to the pot.  Bring the beans to a boil, then lower to a simmer.

Cut the sausage into slices and brown them in batches in a heavy skillet.  Add them to the beans.

Cook everything for an hour or so, until the beans are tender.

Serve over hot white rice.

Notes:
If you leave out the sausage, you will want to add salt.

Pecan Pie

There are many recipes for pecan pies and I'm sure they are all tasty.  I experimented with a few and settled on this filling over a decade ago.

Ingredients:
3 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 cup Karo corn syrup
1 tsp vanilla
1/2 tsp salt
3 TBS melted butter
2 cups pecans

Mix eggs.  Add sugar, corn syrup, vanilla, and salt, stir until blended.  Add pecans and melted butter.  Pour into a prepared 9" crust and bake 45 minutes in a 375° oven until filling sets and top is browned.